The history of Paris...in one hour

I had passed it countless times during my excursions in the third arrondissement and always marveled at the high stone walls and its essence of age and secrecy. I recently discovered that the enormous, hidden building was a museum.  Musée Carnavalet's buildings date to 1578 and was purchased by the city of Paris in 1866. Its magnificent gardens, staircases and architecture make it one of the most fascinating destinations in the Marais district. Also, it has one of the two remaining orangeries (like a conservatory) in the Marais. I had no idea this place even existed. 


We were in the mood for a cultural taste of Paris that Saturday and were attracted by the Musée's exhibitions, and its free entrance fee. Carnavalet hosts a grand selection of art, scale models of Paris' developments throughout the ages, the first gargoyles, and mementos that made the city famous. The gardens alone are worth the trip. 

The sign galleries were the most fascinating part of Carnavalet; the collection housed signs spanning from the 16th-20th centuries. I learned that signs were a necessity for shopkeepers, as most of their customers were illiterate. The better and more beautiful the sign, the higher the customer flow. Thus ingenuious shopkeepers created unique signs, such as the chat noir. 

 This little gem was founded in 1881 as Cabaret sign and is one of Paris' most influential images. Located at the food of the Butte de Montmartre, the Chat Noir epitomized the bohemian lifestyle and is still found on every post card and calendar in Paris. It wasn't until now that I understood what it was. 
Other metal signs, like griffons, huge scissors, Elms and forks covered the walls of the gallery and indulged the viewer in an eclectic array of Paris' visual history. 

The staircases of the museum (primarily an awesome workout) is also one of the Musée's greatest architectural features. Wide and grand, the stone staircases were as breathtaking as some of the art pieces themselves.

We mostly browsed the furniture and room galleries, as we had all been to Versailles and basically everything royal from that century looks alike. Been there, done that. 

However, I did find this dressing sectional quite unique and beautiful. And I am sure you are dying to see some of these ridiculously prodigal (GRE word, couldn't help it) rooms; don't worry, I'll indulge you.

After we had our fill of ornate rich people chambers we headed out into the sun, and the gardens. As I said, the museum is also famous for the beautiful gardens that lay in the center of the ancient stone buildings. Intricately designed and perfectly kept, the gardens provided the perfect respite after our march through the history of Paris. 

  

It would have happened sooner or later...

...I gave in. I went to the American coffee shop in Paris. And no, it's not Starbucks, surprise, surprise. Sugarplum bakeshop is the real deal. A delectable and all-American coffee shop and bakery in the middle of Paris, tucked up a small street in the 5th arrondissement.

I desperately needed a change of study scene. So I parted with the usual Starbucks and crossed over to the left bank, GRE books in tow, in search of American sweets. 

"Hello! Great to see you!" A cheerful voice called out the moment I walked in the door. I was taken aback and looked around. First of all, I was not used to being greeted in English, and secondly, I was not aware I knew anyone or anyone knew me. After a few seconds I realized it was one of the owners, a voracious redhead from Charleston who was sitting on the couch in a variegated bandana. I smiled and asked how she was and she responded, "Great! I am spending my whole day looking at home improvement and decoration catalogues."Sarcasm. An American sarcastic joke. I loved it. Not to mention that everything here is done in English (of course they speak french when necessary and have translations) as it is a bona-fide American coffee shop. Coldplay and Joshua Radin were playing in the background, the room was filled with eclectic coffee and dining room tables and chairs, and an array of goodies sat behind a glass counter. 

Sugarplum specializes in homemade American classics, like cheesecake, brownies, chocolate chip cookies, cake, banana bread, blondies, etc. I died at the selection. As a chocolate chip cookie connoisseur I was tempted to buy one and be done with it, because they looked absolutely amazing. However, the baker said they were on the crispy side today (yes, because they had just come out of the oven), so I decided to go for something else. 

I decided on the Masala Chai tea and a raspberry muffin. I am not usually a muffin fan, but these looked so home-made I had to give them a try. I also grabbed a pecan toffee bar to go for Ariana. (Totally stole a bite of that; the richness of the pecans sat perfectly with the slight layer of caramel toffee that lay beneath. Not to mention the buttery crust acted like an extra layer, making it more like a layer bar than a toffee.)

So I settled down to study, set out my books and gazed lovingly at my breakfast. An American muffin, in an American coffee shop, in Paris. It was a lovely taste of home that I was not aware I missed. 

The Chai Masala was wonderful. My pot yielded three cups of spiced cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla flavors. It was one of the best chai brews I have tasted. After I dissected my muffin in my usual fashion (only eating the top) I realized that the interior was filled with chunky, sweet raspberry compote....so obviously I had to eat the whole thing

*Side note

I went back twice after this (once I split a scone with Ariana, the second I got the chocolate chip cookie. It was so amazing I had to save it and bring it home to eat on special occasions. Definitely a top chocolate chip cookie contender in my book. And yes, it is still in my fridge.)